North Coast 500 – The ultimate road trip around the North of Scotland

Unleash your wanderlust and witness the unrivalled beauty of the Scottish Highlands on the legendary North Coast 500 Route.

An Introduction to the NC500

The North Coast 500 (or NC500 Route as it is sometimes called) is a legendary 516-mile scenic road trip that takes you through the stunning landscapes of the Scottish Highlands. The North Coast 500 offers a mesmerizing experience, showcasing the country’s natural beauty, historic landmarks, and picturesque villages.

Introduced as ‘Scotlands Route 66’ in 2015, it is an initiative of the North Highlands. In 2019 it was thought to generate £22 million in additional revenue annually.

It’s an amazing road trip with winding roads and sometimes tricky driving conditions. If you are happy to keep one eye on the scenery and one eye firmly fixed on the road then you will be rewarded with its wonderful sunsets, fabulous castles, fantastic beaches, and glorious lochs –  ‘Welcome to the North Coast 500’

While the route can be travelled in either direction. This article explores what was going to be an NC500 anticlockwise road trip.

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North Coast 500 – Clockwise or Anticlockwise?

When deciding which direction to take on the North Coast 500, there are several factors to consider.

People initially consider the clockwise option. However, there are important aspects to contemplate when making this decision.

Driver Confidence.

If you are not entirely comfortable behind the wheel or are driving an unfamiliar vehicle, tackling the challenging Bealach na Ba pass to Applecross on the first day (The clockwise option) might not be the best choice. It is a tricky drive with a steep incline, combined with hairpin bends on a very narrow road! It is particularly difficult in bad weather, and I have personally witnessed a local lorry driver come head to head with a hired motorhome on a single-track road where the motorhome was expected to reverse and the driver just couldn’t!

Weather Conditions on the NC500 Route

The weather also plays a significant role. If you haven’t pre-booked accommodation and are open to wild camping, you have the advantage of checking the weather forecast and deciding which direction seems more favourable. We decided, for us, that the weather was going to be a little rough. Hence we decided to drive anticlockwise, saving the more dramatic West for the better weather. We couldn’t have been more right about the weather for the East Coast section of our trip. In fact, it turned out to be one of the contributing factors to us wandering off the official route so often.

Don’t Forget the View!

Consideration should also be given to passenger views. It is often suggested that travelling clockwise allows the passenger, who sits on the left side in a right-hand drive vehicle, to enjoy the coastal views.

So it’s Anticlockwise for us!

Personally, we recommend going anti-clockwise. For us, once the decision was made due to weather, the journey and the overall experience gradually builds up to a climax as you head from east to west. The East is pretty and has its own charms, but as you gradually head West the landscape gets more rugged and dramatic, and finally just Breathtaking!

Planning Your Journey on the North Coast 500 Route

To make the most of your NC500 anticlockwise trip, some planning is essential. Consider the seasonal variations and choose the best time to embark on the adventure. The route is particularly popular during the summer months, but also offers its own charm during spring and autumn. Create a detailed itinerary, allowing for exploration and relaxation at each stop. Before hitting the road, ensure your vehicle is in good condition.

No amount of planning however could prevent the accident which caused Mel to suffer a broken foot just weeks before we were due to leave. This saw our trip turn from a ‘we are going to go and climb a mountain!’ to ‘we are going to drive and do a road trip’. This change in priorities fundamentally changed the route for us, and this is an account of how things turned out.

Into Scotland: Heading for the NC500 Route

As we drove up from England, our first night we crossed the border into Scotland and headed for St. Abbs. The signs welcoming you to St Abbs may have you scratching your head. The Twinning with ‘New Asgard’, a bit of a joke following the filming of scenes from Avengers: Endgame at this location

The water around here is crystal clear which makes it a magnet for scuba divers. It was also Britain’s first voluntary marine reserve the details of which are to be found in the pretty visitors centre, which used to be the village hall.

For us, fishing off the harbour wall was as energetic as we got. Mass excitement occurred when a pod of dolphins was spotted out past the harbour wall, and the early evening was spent hoping they would come back again

A massive fundraising effort was launched following the RNLIs decision to remove the lifeboat at St Abbs. The now privately funded and independent Lifeboat station was reopened with a new boat in 2016.

There are motorhome spaces along the harbour wall, for a small, cash fee. We parked up at the harbour wall, popped our £10 through the Harbour Masters letterbox, settled down for the evening with a bottle of wine, and cooked a little dinner as the light dropped. We wanted to see the sunrise on our first day in Scotland, and the following morning we were not disappointed as the sun rose. The view over the bay was spectacular.

On to Inverness: The Old Military Road

We left early, continuing North, around Edinburgh, over the Forth Bridge, and continued on the M90 to Perth. At this point, we made the decision not to take the apparently, rather boring A9 around the Cairngorms National Park. It had been recommended that instead, we drive The Old Military Road, A93.

The Road takes you through the heart of the Cairngorms National Park. It takes you through the kind of sceneries you would expect to see on your drive through Scotland. The road is pretty quiet and barely has any traffic at all. Most people drive around on the main road that runs next to the national park, as it’s much quicker, but honestly, you will be so glad you took The Old Military Road!

The Old Military Road is literally in the middle of nowhere! The endless mountain views, Stunning vistas, and absolute remoteness are truly worth a few hours of your time.

At Balmoral Castle, we turn left onto the B976, heading north again, and at the fork in the road turn left onto the A939 (Still the Old Military Road). Follow all the way out to the A95 at Speybridge. At Speybridge you can pick up the Old Military Road again and it will take you to Inverness, about 1 hour’s drive.

We, however, didn’t head for Inverness, we started by heading down the south side of Loch Ness. Hoping to see beautiful vistas we were disappointed as the route is heavily wooded and these sorts of views were hard to find.

Take a moment to visit the Commando Memorial a Category A listed monument in Lochaber, Scotland. It’s dedicated to the men of the original British Commando Forces raised during World War II and situated around a mile from Spean Bridge. It overlooks the training areas of the Commando Training Depot established in 1942 at Achnacarry Castle.

Fort Augustus

The B862 eventually delivered us to the delight which is Fort Augustus Here there is a ladder of Locks joining Loch Ness to the Caledonian Canal. You can easily spend an hour watching the boats negotiating these and the swing bridge. There is a nice choice of gift shops, pubs and ice cream vendors in the centre of the town and plenty of accommodation in the area.

Inverness: Start of the NC500 Route

The historic city of Inverness serves as the starting point for the journey. Immerse yourself in the rich history and charm of this city, with its magnificent Inverness Castle standing tall.

Culloden Battlefield

Don’t miss the opportunity to visit the Culloden Battlefield, where the infamous Battle of Culloden took place. The last pitched battle ever fought on British soil it saw the defeat of Bonnie Prince Charlie in a little over an hour. There is a visitor centre and a self-guided audio tour in numerous languages included in the entrance fee.

Cruising Loch Ness

No trip to Inverness would be complete without embarking on a Loch Ness cruise. Hop aboard a boat and venture into the mysterious waters of Scotland’s most famous loch. As you sail along, keep your eyes peeled for a glimpse of the legendary Loch Ness Monster, affectionately known as Nessie. Enjoy the breathtaking scenery of the surrounding mountains and learn about the myths and legends that shroud this mystical loch.

East Coast Beauty

Having rejoined the official NC500 route we were soon wandering off again. Heading right into the Black Isle at the first opportunity – on the hunt for more dolphins in the Moray Firth. Determined not to take a boat trip in the Moray Firth due to the stress this places on the wildlife we ended up sleeping for the night on the furthest peninsula opposite Cromarty near the Nigg Ferry Terminal.

What we didn’t expect was the Port of Nigg, where they seem to construct parts of Oil Rigs. And if this wasn’t enough of a surprise, the following morning heading round the Cromarty Firth we were firstly amazed to find the ‘storing’ of oil rigs in the Firth, and then around the next corner, delighted to see seals in the water and at play on the rocks at Dornoch (take Binoculars!). It really was a tapestry of coastal wonders.

We picked up the A9 at the Bridge across the Firth and moved on.

At Helmsdale we headed again inland and followed the Helmsdale River (famous for its fly fishing) via the A897 for some miles to Kildonan the site of a historic gold rush and where today you can still try your hand at gold panning (at Baile An Or).

Helmsdale itself is a large village very pretty but grey with its morbid Scottish stone buildings. There’s a nice port area in which we had planned to stay for the night but instead, we headed north.

We were by now getting a little fed up with the East Coast weather. The sun came out for a while as we had dressed crab from a kiosk in the very pretty harbour of Dunbeath.

Bedecked with wonderful flower arrangements, it’s a beautiful location and the Dunbeath Heritage Centre tells the story of how the harbour boomed due to Herring. We thought we had found our overnight stop until the midges descended and we found ourselves back on the road again finally finding our overnight stop at a pub (The Village Inn) a short distance from John O’Groats in a place called Keiss.

John O’Groats and the North Coast

Heading north, we entered the untamed landscapes of Caithness. In the morning we were up early to make the short final trip to John o’Groats, the northernmost point of mainland Britain, and soak in the awe-inspiring views of the North Sea. Well, it may be more accurate to explain that we got soaked by the rain whilst looking out to the North Sea! We were lucky to take some dry pictures at the embarrassingly tacky tourist spot which bookends the north of the country.
It’s not quite the most northern point in Mainland Scotland though, Dunet Head takes that accolade.

Dunet Head

We had breakfast there, (scotch pancakes and jam) watching the water pour down the windows whilst parked in the car park of the lighthouse, which we couldn’t see for the rain and the sea fog.

Having looked at the weather forecast for the next few hours, we admitted defeat and drove to Thurso and booked ourselves into a Campsite for the day/night.

The following day the weather had improved and we decided to get off the NC500 again and headed down the B871 at Betty Hill. So now instead of heading West, we were heading south. When we arrived at Strathnaver we took the B873 still heading South. This route is not part of the NC500 however it is extraordinarily beautiful. Once we had pulled over for about 30 minutes to let a cycle race pass us we followed these roads west across some of the most spectacular scenery. At the end of the B873, we turned left onto the A836 and followed it till we came across Loch Shin, and turned right onto the A838.

The views over Loch Shin were more of the sort of views we had expected at Loch Ness, and by the time we popped on the West Coast at Laxford Bridge, we had missed a huge amount of the NC500 but had seen instead some of the most breathtaking scenery

We headed for Kinlochbervie and following our nose, an App and other ‘vans’ we found ourselves parked on flat grass behind the beautiful pebbly Sheigra Beach, where we stayed for two days. Unfortunately, there are now signs saying No Campervans.

Venturing Westward: Toward the West Coast.

To follow the NC500 Route, unlike us, just after Betty Hill follow the A836 towards Tongue. At Tongue take the A838 and continue west towards Durness, passing the Smoo Cave on the way.

Exploring Smoo Cave in Durness on the North Coast 500

Smoo Cave, nestled in the mesmerizing landscape of Durness on the North Coast 500 (NC500) route, is a captivating natural wonder that lures visitors with its enigmatic charm. This majestic sea cave, formed over thousands of years by the relentless power of the ocean, stands as a testament to the raw forces of nature.

As you approach Smoo Cave, you are greeted by its imposing entrance, a grand archway carved into the cliffs by the ceaseless waves. The cave’s name originates from the Norse word “smjugg” meaning “hiding place,” and once you step inside, you understand why it earned such a mysterious name.

Smoo Cave waterfall

Venturing further into the depths of Smoo Cave, you find yourself immersed in a world of awe-inspiring beauty. The cave is divided into two chambers, each with its own distinct characteristics. The first chamber, illuminated by natural light streaming through the entrance, reveals a breathtaking waterfall cascading from the ceiling. The sound of water crashing against ancient rocks creates a symphony of nature that resonates within you.

As you navigate through the first chamber, you encounter a narrow passageway known as the “Washerwoman’s Cave.” Legend has it that the ghostly apparition of a washerwoman haunts this area, forever doomed to wash her laundry in the underground stream. Whether you believe in such tales or not, the atmosphere is undeniably atmospheric and filled with a sense of intrigue.

Descending deeper into the cave, you enter the second chamber, where the true magnificence of Smoo Cave is unveiled. This vast cavern, shrouded in darkness, is adorned with spectacular stalactites and stalagmites, formed over centuries by the slow drip of mineral-rich water. The silence here is palpable, broken only by the echoing sound of water dripping onto the cave floor.

Highland Scenic Drives

Heading South now the A838 run down the Kyle of Durness with spectacular views out across the water. The road is single track but the mountains ahead lure you onwards. For many miles, you are driving over open moorland with mountains on either side and small lochs. At Rhiconich the road widens. At Laxford Bridge the road becomes the A894 towards Scourie.

Kylesku Bridge

From Scourie the A894 continues south to the Kylesku Bridge, which when we arrived seemed to be hosting a supercar gathering.

Kylesku Bridge is an impressive architectural feat that spans Loch a’ Chàirn Bhàin, connecting the communities of Kylesku and Kylestrome. Its sleek design blends harmoniously with the natural landscape, offering breathtaking views of the surrounding loch and mountains. Beyond its aesthetic allure, the Kylesku Bridge serves a practical purpose, facilitating smoother transportation along the coastal route. It has greatly improved accessibility for both locals and visitors, reducing travel times and enhancing connectivity in this remote region. The bridge has become an integral part of the North Coast 500 (NC500).

The Drumbeg Loop: North Coast 500

Beyond Unapool the road forks. You can’t miss it, as its signposted NC500! This is the Drumbeg Loop and is arguably the most scenic part of the entire NC500 route.

The Drumbeg Loop is a mesmerizing stretch of road. This scenic route offers a journey, showcasing the breathtaking beauty of the Scottish Highlands.

With each bend, you’ll be greeted by panoramic vistas that showcase the majesty of towering mountains, serene lochs, cascading waterfalls, and lush green valleys. This captivating scenery is a haven for nature enthusiasts, offering abundant opportunities to witness wildlife in their natural habitat.

A highlight of the Drumbeg Loop is the picturesque village of Drumbeg itself. Nestled amidst this stunning landscape, the village exudes a tranquil charm and provides a perfect respite for travellers.

Bealach na Bà Mountain Pass

Wind your way along the Bealach na Bà, a legendary mountain pass offering jaw-dropping views of the Applecross Peninsula. Immerse yourself in the beauty of nature, spot wildlife along the way, and take in the panoramic vistas that will leave you in awe.

Decide on What to See

With a diverse range of attractions, you can customize your journey to suit your interests and time constraints. Explore the historic castles, wander along pristine beaches, hike through picturesque mountains, or indulge in delicious local cuisine along the way. The NC500 offers something for everyone, making it a truly unforgettable experience.

Have a Plan, Even if it’s Flexible

To make the most of your NC500 adventure, it’s advisable to plan ahead. Research the must-see stops that align with your interests and create a flexible itinerary that allows for spontaneous discoveries. Booking accommodations in advance, especially during peak travel seasons, ensures a comfortable stay along the route.

Driving The NC500 Route

Whether you choose to embark on the NC500 route in a car, motorhome, or campervan, be prepared for the narrow and winding roads that add to the thrill of the journey. Take your time, drive safely, and make use of passing places to allow other vehicles to pass on single-track roads.

Photo Opportunities

As you travel, keep your camera at the ready to capture the breathtaking vistas, dramatic landscapes, and wildlife encounters. The NC500 is not just a road trip; it’s a visual feast that will provide you with memories and photographs to cherish for a lifetime.

So, gear up for an adventure, immerse yourself in the beauty of the Scottish Highlands, and discover the hidden gems of the North Coast 500 route.