Hanoi

We visited Vietnam in January 2024 and started our trip in Hanoi with a somewhat shaky plan to “just work our way south” over the space of around a month. The National Holiday of Tet fell within our time in the country. One of our few focuses was to ensure that we were somewhere great to enjoy the festivities.

As usual, we had left via Gatwick Airport. This time, due to the early flight we were burdened with a Premier Inn breakfast-induced food coma. We had chosen to fly with China Southern Airways (including a transfer in Guangzhou) due to the amazing ticket price. Despite our low expectations, the flight, service and food options were very good.

Having arrived at Hanoi we were easily able to purchase an ESIM. Grabbing local money from the ATM (at least three near the exit doors of the building) and our luggage we wandered out of the airport building to be met by our driver.

We had pre-booked our ride via Booking.com but similar services are available with many carriers. Be wary of Taxis and if you download and use ‘Grab’ for a similar service, make sure you book via the app platform and ensure the registration of your vehicle matches that showing on your booking confirmation. There will be taxi drivers who will show you the ‘Grab’ Logo as wallpaper on their phone, this is not a Grab service. You will also discover once in Hanoi just how easy it is to buy Grab clothing so be wary.

We spent three nights in Hanoi. We could have reduced this to two, but we travel slowly and like to walk rather than take transport.

During our first evening in Hanoi, we walked around the Hoan Kiem Lake in the old quarter. Beautiful in its evening illuminations. Enhanced by the closure of the road around the lake at the weekend. This amble in the evening helped us orientate ourselves. Also we were surprised by how small the old part of the city was.

We had checked in to the Prince 2 hotel in the old town, Whilst very central, a perfect spot for exploring, there was no lift and having paid extra for a ‘sky view room’, the six floors of circular stairs were a bit of a chore with a backpack. The ‘sky view’ unfortunately was not worth the effort. Although at the top our view on one side of the room was straight into another building. It didn’t matter.
Our first day of exploring arrived with the sunrise the following morning and started with Banh mi and coffee.

Social media has many views about the food in Vietnam. Enough to make my seafood and egg-hating husband wonder why I had even booked plane tickets here. But the coffee won him around. Vietnamese drip coffee was an instant hit. Over the next few days, many were consumed. No Complaints even when occasionally he was presented with milk rather than black as requested. This would never happen at home.

We sat that first morning on the roof balcony of a coffee shop. On a road intersection in the old quarter of Hanoi. We watched the world pass by below us. That first morning I was unable to stomach the idea of the famous Hanoi Egg Coffee. Instead, I tried the cocount coffee which was delicious. We were set for a day of wandering.

We left aiming for the B52 in the Huu Tiap lake but first found the B52 museum.

This museum closes for lunch around midday so we managed to squeeze a visit in before the doors closed. It is not a massive museum and you don’t need too much time to do it justice. The front of the museum looks like a scrapyard. It is a well-thought-out Scrap Yard centring around the twisted wreckage of a shot-down American B52. The museum narrative, as a Westerner, I found interesting. The display boards are also in English so you can read your way around. There is no need for a guide or audio guide. The building is on two levels and is free to enter.

What struck us was the way the narrative on the exhibits portrayed the Americans as the enemy waging war on Vietnam as a whole. At school, we learned that the American involvement was supporting the South from the actions of the Communist North. We all know these things are never that clear-cut. It was interesting to see it from a different perspective.

In the basement of the building is a gift shop of sorts. Quite the oddest shop. It sells flip-flops and sandals made from old car and truck tyres. As they were made for the soldiers. Perhaps an example of recycling at its best.

We swerved purchasing a pair and we walked a few streets away to find the B52 which came down in a lake in Central Hanoi. Left in situ. Today it’s an example of how the Vietnamese dealt with the “US Imperialists violating Hanoi Airspace” as advised by an information board at the site. The board also advises that the incident (which took place on the 27th of December 1972) was an outstanding feat. One which contributed to achieving victory in the air. Ultimately defeating the US aggressors and achieving the nation’s Salvation.

Having recharged by stopping close by at another small lake in the Ngoc Ha Precinct for coffee, we headed for the Temple of Literature. Our visit to Hanoi seemed to have coincided with the local students being en-masse to take new photos for the New Year. For the whole weekend, we were dodging Instagrammers with pop-up reflectors, ill-fitting shoes and fresh flowers as props.

The temple of Literature was an oasis of calm in the busy town. A beautiful set of buildings of learning, with a Confucian temple. Set in a garden in the centre of the city. Founded in 1070 by Emperor Ly Thanh Thong. Its low-slung pagodas, statues of Confucius and central ponds make for a rare example of traditional architecture which honours Vietnam’s finest Scholars.

There are several must-see places in the town of Hanoi, such as Train Street, but do your research and decide which ones interest you and which ones you are happy to miss.

At the end of our second day, our wanderings had seen us visit:-

the Ho Tay Lake with its beautiful Pagoda
Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum complex,
the Presidential Palace,
Quan Thanh Temple,
Dong Xuan Market and
Hoa Lo Prison.

Nicknamed by American Airman as the Hanoi Hilton. Today this tiny piece of history sits dwarfed by the buildings around it. A prison for many years. Even before the Vietnam War. The buildings display photographs of how the complex used to be used by villages in the area. Completely overwhelmed by inmates during both the uprising against the French and during the US War. An important piece of history which most definitely is worth a detour.

We had tried lots of new foods and favoured summer rolls; even opting to roll our own one evening for dinner.

The weather had remained on our side with the cloudy weather of the first few days finally lifting to allow the sun to shine. By the time our last day had arrived, we checked out of our hotel and went in search of a new breakfast venue. Afterwards, we were lured into the shops in the Old Quarter. Being at the start of a three-month trip we have no room for souvenirs. But when we left here we were to head to the mountains in the North. So a few extra layers were in order.

Shopping is a tiring business so a visit to The famous Beer Street was in order. Choosing not to partake in the variety of frog-based dishes on the menu. Opting instead for an ice cream back at the lake. Ngoc Son Temple then became an obvious choice to finish our sightseeing.

We first saw this lit up on our first night, the scarlet bridge is as enticing during the day. The temple of the Jade Mountain is Hanoi’s most visited temple. It sits on a small island at the north end of Hoan Kiem Lake. Constructed in the Vietnamese style and dedicated to the General who defeated the Mongols in the 13th Century. It’s also home to a bit of a celebration for the turtles which live in the Hoam Kiem Lake. The largestis preserved. Presented in a glass case for all to admire its little grinning face.

Not far from the temple was the municipal water puppet theatre. You need to secure your tickets to the show in advance. We went in low season and went to purchase tickets 24 hours prior. Even then we had to visit an hour later than we had originally planned.
The show itself is well worth the price of the seat. It’s only 50 minutes long and whilst an Audio guide is available it is not necessary to follow the show. The show is utterly bonkers, but it will make you smile a lot. Take your inner child along for the visit. You won’t be disappointed.

We grabbed food and returned to our luggage at the hotel. We awaited our transfer for the overnight bus to Ha Giang. Knowing that our route back from there, in four days, would see us pass back through Hanoi. We are not a massive fan of cities. But the Old City of Hanoi doesn’t feel like a city. It feels like an old community. Preserving its traditions in an increasingly modern world. We met with kind, helpful people. There’s nothing to be scared of here. People like to talk to you and improve their English. Ultimately they are going about their daily lives. If you observe some commonsense rules you will be fine. Please always set a price with a rickshaw driver before you get on board. In shops be prepared to walk away at 50% of the asking price but be prepared to pay 60%.

Smile, be kind to the kids, but don’t give them money. Kids in Vietnam spend long hours in school. Education is the key to their future. The future of the country as a whole. They all learn English so engage with them and see what they know. Vietnam is a country which is going places, it’s changing rapidly.

We enjoyed our time here it was a bit of a ride but wonderful.