Cat Ba Island

Like all things in life, travel is subjective. Following the advice of other travellers, we found ourselves in Cat Ba. I was disappointed.

We came to Cat Ba because it is widely advised that this place is quieter than Ha Long. The cruises are in a much more peaceful area of the beautiful limestone islands. It’s true. They are.

We chose to visit here for three days. Arriving from Hanoi with Cat Ba Express the Journey by coach and speedboat offers the option to use the new Sunworld cable car to reach the island instead of the speedboat.

At first-sight it seems strange that a cable car has been constructed in this area when there are many other options to reach the island by water. However, when you reach the town slowly you become aware of the scale of the aspirations of the Island.

The Beach remains enticing in all the photos of the hotels advertising rooms in the town. But it is not there anymore. It’s hidden behind hoarding boards advertising the monumental works going on behind.

Sunworld, somehow, has been given the green light to build housing, hotels and a marina on the land. While we were there, there was a continuous flow of cement mixers on the promenade. This is a massive project. Until it is finished has removed the view and the main beach from the Island. Be careful where you book it’s very likely the view you base your room choices upon isn’t there anymore.

On our first day, we hired a motorbike, We had planned to spend the day out and about exploring. The reality is rather different. There are two main roads. One to the ferry port and one to the Cablecar/port. Off one of these roads, you will find Hang Quan y or Hospital cave, It is worth a look. It’s a must-see if you have an interest in the Vietnam War. A few stairs up to the entrance and a friendly welcome. A few exhibits demonstrate how the caves were used and interesting photos are placed on the walls. It won’t take you too long to walk through the network of rooms. The tickets are cheap and the visit is short and interesting.

There are a couple of other sites to visit on the Island accessible by road, including the Cong Chao Caves and 102 house. Even with stopping for coffee, we had completed the trip in about three hours.

The following morning we were up early to be met by Serenity Cruises for our transfer to the dock. From here we were transferred to our cruise ship for a day in Lan Ha Bay

Starting by passing the floating fishing villages we cruised amongst the limestone stacks. Kayaking in and through Dark and Light Cave and later after a delicious lunch and Beach activities.

The morning mists lifted and the warm late January sun was a welcome addition to the day. For me, the waters were too cold for swimming, but many in our little group did. We were returned to our hotels by 5.30 with a glow in our noses from the winter sun’s effects.

By the third day, we had planned to go in search of the rather unimaginatively named Beaches 1,2 and 3. All linked by a pathway between the hotels which tower over these tiny strips of sand. Out of season the last two beaches had not been cleared and were littered with rubbish which had come in on the tide. It was a bit disappointing. The Flamingo Beach Hotel, which comprised three massive towering blocks over-looking the beach, was open during the off season. But had not taken the time to remove the waste and it rather detracted from the stunning view.

The views here are vaguely familiar and it took us a few days to pinpoint it. This was Greece, but in Asia. Without the plate smashing and Feta cheese. This coastline is very pretty, although so little is accessible by foot. It also seems to be devoid of wildlife. This island was smashed by Typhoon Yagi in September of 2024, leaving 300 dead. It was the strongest storm to hit Vietnam in 70 years. I guess the fact that the businesses were up and running is a testament to the inhabitant’s endurance. The centre of this Island is a Unesco Geopark and there are no roads through it. Even a hiking day trip involves a boat trip to start.

It seems that Ca Ba and its bay have a bright future for mass tourism. There is no doubt it is being transformed beyond all recognition. The hotels which used to face the edge of the water still use photos of how the bay used to look. It’s all a bit dishonest, but I can understand why.
An expansion of the cable car is planned bringing the masses quickly into the town. The roads have already been improved. At present the extra wide highways from the port seem a little out of place but will soon be filled.

But how soon? The bays you pass on your way into town demonstrate the scale of the work. Already completed, or at least partway completed. Rows and rows of concrete house shells waiting to be finished. Sandwiched between working beaches, at least for now. You can’t help but wonder what the island will look like in another three, five or ten years. I guess the increase in the wealth in Vietnam drives the project. An increase in the amount of locals wanting a house at the beach. An escape from Hanoi. But at what cost? This is a massive project, and in a communist country, it was a surprise to find it was privately owned. As one local told us ‘It won’t benefit the Islanders’ but I guess time will tell.